Sunday 1 May 2016
Tuesday 19 April 2016
Saturday 16 April 2016
Best Javascript MVC Frameworks
Javascript
The frameworks discussed are the ones with the most traction at present: AngularJS, Backbone, Ember, and Knockout. Batman, CanJS, Meteor, and Spine are also mentioned but not covered in depth.Each project is examined from several different perspectives including community, leadership, maturity, size, dependencies, interoperability, inspiration, philosophy, and features.
Specifically, the following four features are very important to me:
- UI Bindings - I'm not just talking about templates, I'm talking about a declarative approach to automatically updating the view layer when the underlying model changes. Once you have used a framework (such as Flex) that supports UI bindings, you can never go back.
- Composed Views - Like all software developers, I enjoy creating modular reusable code. For this reason, when programming UI, I would like to be able to compose views (preferably at the template layer). This should also entail the potential for a rich view component hierarchy. An example of this would be a reusable pagination widget.
- Web Presentation Layer - We are programming for the web here people, the last thing I want are native-style widgets. There is also no reason for a web framework to create it's own layout manager. HTML and CSS are already the richest way to do style and layout in existence, and should be used as such. The framework should be centered around this concept.
- Plays Nicely With Others - Let's face it, jQuery is pretty amazing. I don't want a framework which comes bundled with a sub-par jQuery clone, I want a framework which recommends using jQuery itself.
Most established
- Backbone.js
- AngularJS
Experiencing the most growth (in the last year)
- AngularJS
- Meteor
- Ember
- Knockout
Showing a small following but growing rapidly
- CanJS
Conclusion
We encourage you to take a look at the tests and data for yourself and draw your own conclusions. At the very least, it suggests that if initial load times are an important criteria in your consideration of tools, you may not be able to make use many of these tools today.
But we have reason to believe that will improve in the future. There are practical approaches we can already use today to reliably produce very fast rendering times, but they work best when HTML content is delivered from the server side rather than generating it solely on the client. That approach benefits many areas of user experience aside from performance alone, and we plan to write more about that in a followup post.
But in the meantime, it’s incredibly encouraging to see that the authors of frameworks like Ember are starting to acknowledge this issue. We can’t wait to see where the next few months take us.
CSS3 Introduction Lesson - 1
CSS
What is CSS3?CSS3 offers a huge variety of new ways to create an impact with your designs, with quite a few important changes. This first tutorial will give you a very basic introduction to the new possibilities created by the standard.
Structures
The development of CSS3 is going to be split up into ‘modules’. The old specification was simply too large and complex to be updated as one, so it has been broken down into smaller pieces – with new ones also added.
Some of these modules include:
- The Box Model
- Lists Module
- Hyperlink Presentation
- Speech Module
- Backgrounds and Borders
- Text Effects
- Multi-Column Layout
HTML Basic Introduction for Beginners
HTML
What is HTML?H-T-M-L are initials that stand for HyperText Markup Language (computer people love initials and acronyms -- you'll be talking acronyms ASAP).
Let me break it down for you:
Hyper is the opposite of linear. It used to be that computer programs had to move in a linear fashion. This before this, this before this, and so on. HTML does not hold to that pattern and allows the person viewing the World Wide Web page to go anywhere, any time they want.
Text is what you will use. Real, honest to goodness English letters.
Mark up is what you will do. You will write in plain English and then mark up what you wrote. More to come on that in the next Primer.
Language because they needed something that started with "L" to finish HTML and Hypertext Markup Louie didn't flow correctly. Because it's a language, really -- but the language is plain English.
Example:
<!DOCTYPE html>
<html>
<head>
<title>Page Title</title>
</head>
<body>
<h1>My First Heading</h1>
<p>My first paragraph.</p>
</body>
</html>
Basic HTML Tags
<HTML> </HTML>
This tag tells your browser that the file contains HTML-coded information. All html tags must be placed between the open <HTML> tag and the closed tag </HTML> The file extension .html also indicates the document is an HTML document. All html documents MUST be saved with the .html file extension.
<HEAD> </HEAD>
The head tag identifies the first part of your HTML-coded document. The title tag (explained below) must be places between the open <HEAD> tag and the closed </HEAD> tag.
<TITLE> </TITLE>
The title tag contains your document title and identifies its content in a global context. The title is typically displayed in the title bar at the top of the browser window, but not inside the window itself. The title is also what is displayed on someone's hotlist or bookmark list, so choose something descriptive, unique, and relatively short. A title is also used to identify your page for search engines (such as Hotbot or AltaVista).
<BODY> </BODY>
The largest part of your HTML document is the body, which contains the content of your document (displayed within the text area of your browser window). All HTML tags that pertain to the body of your HTML document must be places between the open <BODY> tag and the closed </BODY> tag. The tag has attributes which you can use to set the colors of your background, text, links, and also to include your own background image. They are as follows:
BGCOLOR="white" Sets the background color (other color names: red, black, blue etc)
TEXT="black" Sets the body text color
LINK="blue" Sets the unvisited hypertext links
VLINK ="purple" Sets the visited hypertext links
ALINK="red" Sets the active hypertext links (the color of the hypertext link when you have your mouse button depressed)
BACKGROUND Let you use an image as the background <background=
Body attributes are used as part of the open <body> tag. For example:
<BODY BGCOLOR = "white" TEXT = "black" LINK = "blue" VLINK = "purple" ALINK = "red">
Monday 4 April 2016
Recently every one start to sleep at 3 AM, How to resolve it?
daily life
Now a days every one sleeping in very late night but near by 2 or 3 AM and same too my self also, I had a terrible time sleeping and getting up. After a party one night, I slept late and for the next 20 days, couldn’t get my sleeping pattern back on track. I fell asleep very late every night at around 3 AM and wasn’t able to get up till at least 11 AM each day. For someone like me who usually sleeps by midnight and gets up at 6 AM, I didn’t enjoy this.
These 10 Tips will help you back to normal life.
1. Stick to a schedule.
2. Sleep only at night
3. Exercise
4. Taking a hot shower
5. Avoid eating just before bed
6. Avoid caffeine
7. Read a fiction book
8. Have the room slightly cooler
9. Sleep in silence
10. Avoid alcohol before bedtime
Saturday 2 April 2016
How to clean your vehicles
daily life
1. Start with Compressed Air and Stiff Scrub Brushes on Your Carpets
Many of the cars our Detroit-area pro detailer Brandon Hagaman works on wind up at local car shows—some are concours winners. The first step, he advises, is to fire up the air compressor and blow dirt from the nooks and crannies of your car's floor onto the middle of the carpet, where you can easily vacuum it up. Stiff brushes also loosen dirt from the carpets and upholstery. If you've got leather seats, use a conditioner with aloe.
2. Duct Clean to Keep that New-Car Smell
Compressed air from a small, portable compressor is an easy way to blow dust and dirt out of heating and air-conditioning ductwork. The trick is to aim the high-pressure air at the walls of the ducts behind the vent grilles, where dust and dirt stick and cause musty smells. If your car has a cabin air filter you can change it, or remove it and blow the dust and dirt out.
3. Use Non-Acid-Based Tire Cleaners
Pros use specially mixed acid solutions to clean dirty tires and to strip residue from new tires, as well as to get stubborn brake dust off wheels. But Hagaman says that weekend DIYers should use a nonacid product. Acid-based cleaners can cause bare alloy wheels to oxidize and pit, and they can damage wheels painted with color or clear coatings.
Use a degreaser on wheels, but avoid detergents because they can damage paint if splashed. Again, our pro says, remember to go in the correct order: Wheels and tires should be cleaned before you clean and protect your car's paint.
4. The Best Carwash is a Hand Wash
We recommend hand washing," says Mike Pennington, director of training at auto-surface-products giant Meguiar's. "Our customers enjoy doing it. It's not a chore." Hand washing gives you a chance to experience the tactile shape of your baby, and it's also a great way to inspect and familiarize yourself with the car's surfaces.
But, Pennington says, don't be like the 60 percent of the population that uses dishwashing detergent when washing the car. It gets the car clean, but strips any protective wax coatings, exposing the vehicle to possible nicks, scratches, and stains. A carwash solution will preserve your car's finish.
When water evaporates, it leaves minerals and dirt on the surface of your car. So when you're done with the wash, dry the surface with a rubber-blade squeegee. One example is the California Water Blade, a large silicone squeegee that some of our photographers use to dry cars quickly during photo shoots.
5. Clean Paint is Bright and Shiny
Often it takes more than just a wash to get your paint clean. Bird droppings and man-made pollutants settle on the paint and, after a while, can saturate through wax and clear coatings into the color coat underneath. With your car still out of the sun, run your dry hand across the surface of the paint. If it feels rough, it needs to be cleaned.
There are two ways to clean contaminants, as well as stained and scratched old wax, off your paint: chemically or physically (though Pennington says it usually requires a combination of the two). Paint cleaners are liquids that remove wax, and also clean the top layer of the paint by removing unwanted environmental chemicals that have bonded to the paint. Cleaners can also remove small scratches called swirl marks from the paint.
The second method is to clean paint by rubbing a small block of paint-cleaning clay lubricated with a liquid cleaner wax. "It's a safe way to remove contaminants," Pennington says. "You don't need a trained person or a machine." Just make sure you don't use a piece of clay if you have dropped it on the floor.
6. Polish to Smooth Out Paint
The purpose of polish is to smooth the surface of the paint, which will make it shine and help your car look newer. (Some polishes contain wax, which also protects the paint, but the wax doesn't smooth the paint itself.) When you polish your paint, you can use an oscillating polishing machine. The pros use a rotating polishing machine, which works faster but will harm the paint if you're not careful. For DIYers new to detailing, oscillating buffers are more forgiving.
The pros have a trick to measure their results: Hagaman tells us that they can hold a ruler perpendicular to the surface of the car and see how far its reflection stretches. The higher the number they can read in the paint, the glossier the paint.
7. Protect Paint with Wax
You car had a new clear coat when it left the factory, but that coat wears off over time and leaves the paint to fend for itself against the elements. That's where wax comes in. Wax is sacrificial and will wear off over the course of a few months, but in that time it will absorb stains and small scratches before those hazards make it to the paint. We're told older folks prefer paste wax, while younger ones like liquids. The choice is simply personal preference—both products do the job equally well. Finally, the pro detailers usually use two coats of wax; the purpose of the second coat is to cover areas that the first might have missed. Just don't waste your time trying to apply additional coats for added protection. They don't adhere and will be wiped off with buffing.
8. Wax Every Season
Between paint cleanings and wax applications, you'll find you've picked up stains and scratches. Using liquid spray wax that can touch up these spots between waxings is a good idea but not a substitute for a real wax coating. Because there is no definitive way to tell when wax has worn off, stick to a schedule: Give your car a wax job every season if the vehicle spends every day outdoors.
Pennington says to forget the old tricks for telling when your car needs a wax, such as tossing a terry towel at the car and seeing if it will slide off. "Too many people take beading water to equal protection," he explains. "If you go to a paint shop, pull a car right out of the paint room, and spill water on it, it will bead like crazy, but there's not one layer of protection on it."
9. Make the Glass Shine
Clean the glass last, because it will have grime and dirt from the other steps. And find a glass cleaner without ammonia, which most household glass cleaners contain. Ammonia is bad for vinyl upholstery and the instrument panel. Plus, it stinks.
You'll get the best look if you buff glass with a microfiber cloth, which does a great job of getting rid of cleaner residue. That residue, as well as oils from your skin, causes streaks and spots on the inside of windows. Clean glass also looks great. Pro tip: To reach the inside of the rear window on sedans and coupes, use the back of your hand with the microfiber cloth and you'll find you can get much farther down the glass.
Remember to roll the side windows down slightly so you can get at the top edges. Sometimes glass must be polished because minerals have been deposited and need to be physically ground off by a pro. Many detailers wax the rear and side windows to protect them from being etched by water stains.
Don't put anything on the windshield except Rain-X, and follow the instructions to apply it, a process that's similar to how you apply wax.
Many of the cars our Detroit-area pro detailer Brandon Hagaman works on wind up at local car shows—some are concours winners. The first step, he advises, is to fire up the air compressor and blow dirt from the nooks and crannies of your car's floor onto the middle of the carpet, where you can easily vacuum it up. Stiff brushes also loosen dirt from the carpets and upholstery. If you've got leather seats, use a conditioner with aloe.2. Duct Clean to Keep that New-Car Smell
Compressed air from a small, portable compressor is an easy way to blow dust and dirt out of heating and air-conditioning ductwork. The trick is to aim the high-pressure air at the walls of the ducts behind the vent grilles, where dust and dirt stick and cause musty smells. If your car has a cabin air filter you can change it, or remove it and blow the dust and dirt out.
3. Use Non-Acid-Based Tire Cleaners
Pros use specially mixed acid solutions to clean dirty tires and to strip residue from new tires, as well as to get stubborn brake dust off wheels. But Hagaman says that weekend DIYers should use a nonacid product. Acid-based cleaners can cause bare alloy wheels to oxidize and pit, and they can damage wheels painted with color or clear coatings.
Use a degreaser on wheels, but avoid detergents because they can damage paint if splashed. Again, our pro says, remember to go in the correct order: Wheels and tires should be cleaned before you clean and protect your car's paint.
4. The Best Carwash is a Hand Wash
We recommend hand washing," says Mike Pennington, director of training at auto-surface-products giant Meguiar's. "Our customers enjoy doing it. It's not a chore." Hand washing gives you a chance to experience the tactile shape of your baby, and it's also a great way to inspect and familiarize yourself with the car's surfaces.
But, Pennington says, don't be like the 60 percent of the population that uses dishwashing detergent when washing the car. It gets the car clean, but strips any protective wax coatings, exposing the vehicle to possible nicks, scratches, and stains. A carwash solution will preserve your car's finish.
When water evaporates, it leaves minerals and dirt on the surface of your car. So when you're done with the wash, dry the surface with a rubber-blade squeegee. One example is the California Water Blade, a large silicone squeegee that some of our photographers use to dry cars quickly during photo shoots.
5. Clean Paint is Bright and Shiny
Often it takes more than just a wash to get your paint clean. Bird droppings and man-made pollutants settle on the paint and, after a while, can saturate through wax and clear coatings into the color coat underneath. With your car still out of the sun, run your dry hand across the surface of the paint. If it feels rough, it needs to be cleaned.
There are two ways to clean contaminants, as well as stained and scratched old wax, off your paint: chemically or physically (though Pennington says it usually requires a combination of the two). Paint cleaners are liquids that remove wax, and also clean the top layer of the paint by removing unwanted environmental chemicals that have bonded to the paint. Cleaners can also remove small scratches called swirl marks from the paint.
The second method is to clean paint by rubbing a small block of paint-cleaning clay lubricated with a liquid cleaner wax. "It's a safe way to remove contaminants," Pennington says. "You don't need a trained person or a machine." Just make sure you don't use a piece of clay if you have dropped it on the floor.
6. Polish to Smooth Out Paint
The purpose of polish is to smooth the surface of the paint, which will make it shine and help your car look newer. (Some polishes contain wax, which also protects the paint, but the wax doesn't smooth the paint itself.) When you polish your paint, you can use an oscillating polishing machine. The pros use a rotating polishing machine, which works faster but will harm the paint if you're not careful. For DIYers new to detailing, oscillating buffers are more forgiving.
The pros have a trick to measure their results: Hagaman tells us that they can hold a ruler perpendicular to the surface of the car and see how far its reflection stretches. The higher the number they can read in the paint, the glossier the paint.
7. Protect Paint with Wax
You car had a new clear coat when it left the factory, but that coat wears off over time and leaves the paint to fend for itself against the elements. That's where wax comes in. Wax is sacrificial and will wear off over the course of a few months, but in that time it will absorb stains and small scratches before those hazards make it to the paint. We're told older folks prefer paste wax, while younger ones like liquids. The choice is simply personal preference—both products do the job equally well. Finally, the pro detailers usually use two coats of wax; the purpose of the second coat is to cover areas that the first might have missed. Just don't waste your time trying to apply additional coats for added protection. They don't adhere and will be wiped off with buffing.
8. Wax Every Season
Between paint cleanings and wax applications, you'll find you've picked up stains and scratches. Using liquid spray wax that can touch up these spots between waxings is a good idea but not a substitute for a real wax coating. Because there is no definitive way to tell when wax has worn off, stick to a schedule: Give your car a wax job every season if the vehicle spends every day outdoors.
Pennington says to forget the old tricks for telling when your car needs a wax, such as tossing a terry towel at the car and seeing if it will slide off. "Too many people take beading water to equal protection," he explains. "If you go to a paint shop, pull a car right out of the paint room, and spill water on it, it will bead like crazy, but there's not one layer of protection on it."
9. Make the Glass Shine
Clean the glass last, because it will have grime and dirt from the other steps. And find a glass cleaner without ammonia, which most household glass cleaners contain. Ammonia is bad for vinyl upholstery and the instrument panel. Plus, it stinks.
You'll get the best look if you buff glass with a microfiber cloth, which does a great job of getting rid of cleaner residue. That residue, as well as oils from your skin, causes streaks and spots on the inside of windows. Clean glass also looks great. Pro tip: To reach the inside of the rear window on sedans and coupes, use the back of your hand with the microfiber cloth and you'll find you can get much farther down the glass.
Remember to roll the side windows down slightly so you can get at the top edges. Sometimes glass must be polished because minerals have been deposited and need to be physically ground off by a pro. Many detailers wax the rear and side windows to protect them from being etched by water stains.
Don't put anything on the windshield except Rain-X, and follow the instructions to apply it, a process that's similar to how you apply wax.
Homemade Mosquito net for windows
daily life
If you're handy with a sewing machine or stitching by hand, you can make your own mosquito net. It isn't the easiest of projects, nor the most interesting, but it certainly makes up for that with its functionality (and decorative effect if that's all you're using it for). There are two projects suggested in this article, one for a more decorative effect and one for protective effect. Choose whichever applies most to your needs.
Making the frame
If you haven't already prepared the wood as required under "Things You'll Need", cut it now. The pieces should be as follows:4 x 48” (1.2 metres) (legs)2 x 55” (1.4 metres) (frame widths)2 x 75” (1.9 metres) (frame lengths).
Attach the 55" (1.4 metre) and 75" (1.9 metre) pieces so that they form a frame. Use 2-inch (0.78") nails to nail together the pieces of wood.
Add the legs. Use 2-inch (0.78") nails again to attach the legs at each corner of the frame.
Lift the frame up and rest it over the bed. It must surround the bed completely.
Requirements
Way 1:
5 metres (196.8 metres) of mosquito netting (as fine as possible for the best coverage); choose a color that matches the bedroom theme if making for decorative purposes
Matching thread (or invisible thread)
A side drape rod (wall-mounted) and screws
Acorn end for drape rod
Way 2:
Needle and thread if the mesh isn't in a single piece
174” x 195” – 449.1cm x 495.3cm – 26 yards (23.7 metres) of fine mesh (see Tips for mesh gauge if keeping out Anopheles mosquitoes); however, you can also use alternatives to mesh, such as a cotton or polyester sheet, old linens or clothing, etc., provided it has no holes in it (same measurements)
1 x 1 wood (total: 38’ – 12.5m, cut into: 4 x 48” for legs, 2 x 55” for frame widths, 2 x 75” for frame lengths)
8 x 2” (5cm) spiralled nails
4 x 1” (2.5cm) nails
4 x plastic-rubber washers or bottle caps (to prevent the fabric ripping on the nails)
Hammer
Saw
Measuring tape
Scissors
How to take good passport size photos
daily lifePosing for a passport photo takes mere minutes, but the results will be with you for years. Specifically, if you're over 16 when you get the passport, it will be valid for 10 years; passports issued to children 15 and younger expire in five years. Your photo needs to not only be an accurate depiction of your appearance, which will prevent you from having issues with security agents, but it's normal to have some vanity about this crucial photo. A few minutes of preparation is all you need to take the best picture possible.
ITEMS YOU WILL NEED
1. Face powder
2. Makeup
3. Hair gel
2. Makeup
3. Hair gel
STEP 1
Review the U.S. State Department's regulations about proper passport photos. At the time of publication, the picture must be 2 inches-by-2 inches and in color. You must stand in front of a white background, face the camera directly and have a neutral expression. In the final photo, your head must measure between 1 inch and 1 3/8 inches from the bottom of your chin to the top of your head. If you go to a professional passport photographer, she should know these regulations; but if you opt to take the photo yourself, you must make sure the picture is correctly sized and printed on high-quality photo paper.
STEP 2
Wear a solid-colored shirt with either a v-neck or scoop neck, such as a common T-shirt. Pick a color that flatters your skin tone. If you have pale skin, try navy or jewel tones such as teal. If your skin has gold tones, choose an orange or deep brown shirt, while people with olive or dark skin will look good in vibrant shades of red or blue. Don't wear white or black.
STEP 3
Tap some oil-absorbing face powder on your forehead and nose just before taking the photo. Powder will prevent your skin from looking oily. Women can apply a bit of mascara, blush and clear lip gloss to look polished but not overly made-up.
STEP 4
Wear prescription glasses if you use them daily. Tilt them down on your nose slightly to prevent a glare since the State Department does not allow your passport photo to have any glare in it. Your eyes must still be fully visible through the lenses. Take off your glasses if you don't normally wear them.
STEP 5
Let your hair down. Brush out any tangles, or use your fingers to fluff out your strands if you have curly hair. Rub a bit of gel over the top of your head to smooth down any flyaway hairs.
STEP 6
Stand in front of the camera. If you're taking your photo at a post office or store that has a passport photo station, you may not have any control over the lighting. If you're able to, however, ask the photographer to set up someplace where you're not standing under a light, since this will cast shadows over your face.
STEP 7
Push your shoulders down and back, and stick your chin out an inch or so farther than you normally hold it. Ask the photographer to count to three, and blink on "one" so you won't be caught mid-blink on three. Don't smile broadly, but keep your lips together and think of something happy while the photographer shoots.
Friday 1 April 2016
Why Savings Bank Account?
daily life
A savings account is the simplest type of bank account held by a depositor/customer in a bank or any financial institution. These customers deposit money i.e. their financial savings in this account. The bank stores this money securely. The bank also ensures that the depositor earns returns on the balance in his account. This returns earned is known as the interest and the amount earned depends on the rate of interest. Banks offer different types of savings account designed with different features to suit the customer needs. The money available in a savings account is easily reachable through ATM cards. Some type of savings accounts have a minimum limit for daily cash withdrawal and a certain amount of money must be maintained as minimum balance. Usually people with a steady source of income open savings account. But students, senior citizens, pensioners, etc. can also open savings account with any bank.
Keeping your money liquid
Savings accounts and money market accounts allow you to withdraw your money at any time, which is rarely an option with CDs or long-term investment options. Savings accounts allow for unlimited withdrawals by teller, mail or ATM, but federal regulations limit you to six telephone, electronic or preauthorized transfers per month. Keep in mind, only three of these withdrawals can be by draft, check or debit card. Nevertheless, you can access the money in your savings account when you need it most.
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